How to Set Up a Grow Tent for Cannabis
Table of Contents
Who Should Use Grow Tents?
Grow tents are designed to keep things simple for hobbyist cannabis growers. As convenient as grow tents are, they’re not designed for huge marijuana grow operations! But for someone who wants 1-5 ounces/month, a grow tent may be the best way to go!
Example of a cannabis plant in a grow tent
Pros of Growing Cannabis in a Grow Tent
- Relatively Cheap – Prices are around $70-150 for your average grow tent. Setting up a grow space to have all the same characteristics (reflective walls, air-tight vents, light proof, a waterproof tray at the bottom to catch spilled water, etc.) can easily cost the same amount or more. Plus it’s difficult to DIY a space so that it works as well as a grow tent (which has been designed for this purpose) and it will often take more time, planning and effort than simply buying a pre-made tent.
- Easy & Quick to Set Up – Assembling your grow tent and getting completely set up to start growing will take about an afternoon and can be done by just about anyone (full instructions below). Overall, the work of setting up a grow tent reminds me of putting together an old-fashioned camping tent, only weed comes out of it a few months later!
- Stealth – A grow tent prevents smells and light from escaping the tent when set up properly, and can be tucked away in a big closet or the corner of a room without necessarily drawing a whole lot of attention.
- Perpetual Harvest – Grow tents work very well if you want to keep two separate grow spaces, for example if you wanted a separate vegetative and flowering chamber for a perpetual harvest. Grow tents create a completely self-enclosed environment that can be managed separately.
- Helps Prevent Bugs – The intake holes of most grow tents are covered with mesh, which allow air to pass but stops many insects. This helps prevent incidental bugs like spiders or carpenter beetles from getting to your plants. A grow tent with strong grow lights is also a pretty hot and inhospitable environment for many cannabis pests!
- Keeps Buds Clean – In addition to preventing bugs from getting on your plants, the mesh intake holes help keep out dust and impurities. The sticky trichomes on cannabis buds are surprisingly good at holding on to fibers, animal hair and anything that floats by. A surprising amount of random debris can get onto your buds even if you keep your grow room pristine. A grow tent helps keep buds clean and looking good!
Some grow tents don’t look particularly suspicious. On the left is a homemade stealth grow cabinet and on the right is a 2’x4’x5′ grow tent that looks vaguely like a clothes wardrobe. They’re just about equally nondescript!
When all is said and done, a stealth cabinet with fans on the inside (even one done very professionally so it’s completely light proof) is only marginally more stealthy than a black grow tent with a zipper down the middle. When it comes to stealth, don’t expect any grow tent or cabinet to be stealthy enough for someone to be hanging out in your room without noticing the fact that it’s emitting light/noise/heat. Instead, you’re looking for something that can fool someone who is quickly passing by it for a moment or two.
Grow tents also let you easily set up a perpetual harvest. This grower (Manzfoo) keeps young plants in the purple LED tent, and older plants in the yellow HPS tent. As soon as he harvests the big plants, he rotates in the young ones and starts a new batch. This lets him harvest every 2 months or so!
If you’ve seen the examples and want to keep it simple and get a grow tent, here’s more information on how they quickly create the perfect environment for your growing marijuana plants!
Quickly Create the Perfect Environment
When used correctly, a grow tent lets you recreate nature under its most ideal conditions! Possibly the hardest part of being able to grow cannabis in these ideal conditions is getting set up. However, once everything is set up, it’s mainly a matter of planting a seed and watering your plants until you harvest bud!
If you’re trying to create a growing environment from scratch, you may have to do some DIY which can feel overwhelming if you’re just getting a grasp on growing. Utilizing a grow tent takes care of a bunch of environmental factors in one fell swoop.
- Maximize Your Grow Lights – A grow tent has reflective walls and the reflectivity is equal or often even better than what you could do yourself!
- Designed for Common Grow Equipment – It’s easy to hang and adjust your grow lights, hook up your fan, find ports and vents, etc. A grow tent accounts for most growing situations.
- Light Proof – A grow tent is constructed to prevent light from leaking in or out of the tent. Not only does this help your plants (cannabis needs complete darkness at night to make as many buds as possible), it also prevents light from spilling out; you don’t want to possibly alert others that there are some very bright lights inside your home! Sometimes DIY light proofing a space can be tricky, and a grow tent takes that problem out of the equation.
- Waterproof & Easy to Clean – A grow tent usually has a waterproof floor that contains regular spills so you don’t have to worry about water leaking out onto your floor. It’s also easy to wipe down the walls and floor of a grow tent, making it simple to keep things clean.
- Designed for Airflow – The sealed nature of the tent combined with vents and air ports make it so you can set up a whirlwind of air in the tent simply by installing a strong exhaust fan in one of the included ports. This constantly pulls fresh air in to circulate through the tent from the intake vents near the floor, replacing all the air in just minutes while giving plants plenty of CO2 and preventing problems from heat buildup.
- Smell-Proof – Grow tents make it really easy to take advantage of a carbon filter. The negative air pressure caused by the sealed space prevents any smells from leaking into the home as long as the carbon filter is attached, the exhaust fan is on and the doors are kept closed.
At its simplest, a grow tent just needs an exhaust fan and a grow light. At this point you’ve already created a great cannabis growing environment! See a grow journal in this setup!
What Size Grow Tent?
There are hundreds of models of grow tents, and they come in many different sizes. It can be confusing to know which one to get for your situation, and which ones are best overall. This should help clear things up!
Best Hobbyist Sizes – 2’x4′ and 4’x4′
When it comes to grow tents two of the most common sizes (in the US) for hobbyist growers are the 2’x4′ and 4’x4′ tents. These are also made to fit the most common grow lights.
I believe a 2’x4′ is one of the best sizes for new growers because it gives you enough space for decent yields (get up to several ounces a month) but it isn’t big enough to be overwhelming. You get easy access to all the plants, including the ones in the back, but still get all the advantages of a full-size grow light. You can start with a small light like CFLs or a small LED in this size tent, and still have room to eventually upgrade up to a 400W HPS (7-14 oz harvest).
For bigger growers, a 4’x4′ grow tent is great because it can be used with the next class of grow lights up to some of the biggest grow lights. It can support a 600-1000W HPS or LED grow light as long as it’s 6-7′ tall.
If you want to double your yield from a 2’x4′ but don’t want to have to set up a whole grow room, a 4’x4′ is the way to go! It’s big enough for monster yields (a pound or more!) but still small enough to be manageable by just one person.
Height Helps – At least 5′ tall, and 7′ is better
Short spaces are difficult to grow in because you have to worry about your plant “growing into” the grow light. A 5′ tall tent will support up to a 400W, though more height makes things a little easier. Having an area that is 7′ tall makes it much less likely you’ll ever be limited by the height of your grow space. Even a little extra height can increase your yields in some cases because a taller space lets you support more powerful grow lights and grow larger plants.
Short plants can only yield so much even if they’re completely covered in bud
Extra height lets you use more powerful lights and grow taller plants (with bigger, longer buds!)
Grow Light Compatibility
- 2’x4’x5′ (or taller) – CFLs, T5, 250W, 400W
- 4’x4’x7′ – 600W, 1000W, Huge LEDs
Examples & What to Look For
It can be tempting to try to get a really expensive grow tent with all the “bells and whistles” because you want to give your plants the best possible home! But honestly the cheapest grow tent has 90% of the features of a far more expensive grow tent. If you’ve never grown marijuana before and are reluctant to invest a lot of money, I recommend starting cheap when it comes to tents!
If possible, I recommend getting a tent that’s 6 or 7 feet tall so you never have to worry about running out of height. This easily supports up to a 400W grow light. However, very tall tents in this size are relatively rare and it’s much more common to see grow tents that are 2’x4’x5′. The shorter versions will also do the trick (and can support up to a 400W light if you have a great exhaust system and use careful plant training). Another advantage is that smaller tents are a little less conspicuous looking and people sometimes mistake them for a cheap Ikea-style clothing wardrobe. Just remember with a short tent to keep a close eye on plant height to make sure you don’t run out of head room as plants get taller.
$60) – I love the CoolGrows branded tents. I’ve tried them in a few different sizes and they are generally higher quality (better zippers, more sturdy) and yet cost less than other “generic” tents. I just wish they offered the 2’x4’x6′ size.
$82) – I actually have two of these. The TopoLite tents are not particularly high quality, but they have everything you need. It’s difficult to find a good tent in this particular size, but that extra foot of height is useful enough that I’m willing to deal with second-rate zippers.
$85) – Another CoolGrows tent. This size tent can support even the biggest HID grow light, the 1000W HPS. I personally think it’s the perfect size for a 600W (the most efficient of all grow lights, and it can produce more than a pound), so you get the best and biggest results as possible without dealing with a ridiculous amount of heat or killing your electricity bill.
How to Set Up a Grow Tent for Stealth
- Grow Tent (examples above)
- Grow Light
- Carbon Filter
- Possibly Ducting
1.) Clear Space & Put Together Tent
Before getting started, make sure you’ve freed an afternoon to dedicate to this project. Take a minute to clean up the space you will be building your tent, as it’s easier to do it all in the beginning as opposed to while you’re working. Make sure to put together your tent at its final destination! You don’t want to build it only to realize it doesn’t fit through the doorway 🙂
2.) Hang Grow Light
It can be difficult choosing exactly which grow light you want, but once you’ve made your decision at least it’s easy to hang your light! Compare different grow lights
Example of LED Grow Light Hanging In Tent with Rope Ratchets
(Carbon Filter in Back Scrubs Smells)
The best way to hang your grow light is using rope ratchets if you can; they are cheap and easy to set up. Rope ratchets make it incredibly simple to adjust your lights at any time without the chance of dropping the light on your plants. Sometimes it’s helpful to be able to quickly put lights up or down, whether you want better access to the back of the tent without the light beaming on your head, or even just to take better pictures of your plants. Make sure whatever you use to secure the lights (rope ratchets!) can handle at least twice te amount of your light just to be safe!
Cheap rope ratchets allow you to move a grow light up and down with a few clicks, so you never need to hold up your light or worry you might drop your light on your plants.
3.) Hang Exhaust Fan
I think the best way to make an efficient exhaust system is to hang your exhaust fan inside the tent. This significantly muffles the sound of the fan running, and lets you create a relatively straight path from your light to the fan for maximum circulation and airflow.
Use strong nylon rope or rope ratchets to hang your exhaust fan inside the grow tent (from the top bars) to dramatically reduce sound and vibration. Your fan will sound a lot louder if you just set it on top or on the outside of your tent!
If you’re using a grow light that has an air-cooled hood that contains all the heat, like many MH or HPS grow lights, you can connect the exhaust fan to the hood directly for ultra efficient cooling. This lets you vent hot air directly out a window so heat is never beaming down onto your plants.
For the best results, make sure there is a way for fresh air to get in. Grow tents almost always have removable vents near the bottom of the tent to let in fresh air. Some growers remove the covers completely, but that increases the chance the light will leak into the tent.
To get better airflow without light leaks, you can make a little “window” or light trap facing down (using the built-in intake vents) to let air through, but not light
4.) Connect Carbon Filter – No Smells!
Although some grower don’t use a carbon filter, they can unintentionally be making a trail that leads straight to their grow. Carbon filters ensure there are no smells whatsoever getting where they aren’t supposed to be in addition to providing peace of mind!
Just like the exhaust fan, I recommend hanging your carbon filter with rope ratchets because a carbon filter is surprisingly heavy and rope ratchets make it a lot easier to make adjustments!
It’s important that there is an air-tight line from the carbon filter to the fan (without any air leaks) in order to prevent smells from escaping the tent!
Growers often hang a carbon filter in the back of the tent so it’s less in the way.
Or if you have an air-cooled hood you connect the carbon filter > light > exhaust fan. This is considered a “complete” exhaust system because it cools the grow light and scrubs all smells in one fell swoop.
No matter how you end up doing it, the main idea is to ensure any air leaving the tent must first pass through this carbon filter.
As long as you keep the tent closed and the fan on, you should never be able to smell cannabis in your home or outside. The negative air pressure caused by the sealed tent prevents any air inside the tent from leaking out.
Note: When you open the door of the tent it breaks this seal, which means smells may flood out the door or get pulled into the exhaust fan prematurely. To deal with smells when you open the tent, you can use a product called ONA gel, which is surprisingly effective at covering up odors on a short-term basis.
Also, here’s a trick I learned from a dispensary owner: set up a carbon filter with a fan attached inside the room itself (in addition to the one in your tent), and run it alongside some ONA gel whenever you need to make sure all smells are gone quickly in the room, even if you’ve opened the tent. It works to keep a dispensary smelling neutral and it works just as well in the home!
If you have a smell emergency, you can use an exhaust fan directly attached to a carbon filter sitting on the floor. This isn’t as effective as a “real” exhaust system, but it will clear an entire room of smells in just minutes. Some growers who can’t fit a carbon filter in their grow space have even used this technique to control smells for a whole grow!
5.) Sound, Stealth and Safety Check
You’re at the home stretch! Your grow tent should already be set up, and now it’s just a matter of double-checking everything and adding your plants!
You can dramatically reduce the sound of fans by hanging them as opposed to letting them sit on something. Keeping fans clean will also make them as efficient as possible while preventing sounds from developing.
For both air and water pumps, it makes a difference to place them on something besides directly on the ground. For example placing them on a piece of wood will muffle the vibration.
Light & Smell Check
You want to make sure no light or smells will make it outside the tent!
After everything is set up, turn on your grow light and exhaust fan for a day to test out your new space.
- The sides of the tent should bow inward slightly when you turn on the fan. Inward bowing means you have created negative air pressure, which is perfect because it will prevent smells from leaking into the home as long as the tent is kept closed.
- Ensure that your carbon filter is securely attached to your exhaust fan, with no way for air to leak in or out. A strong seal between the carbon filter and the fan will ensure that any air leaving the tent passes through the carbon filter first, which will completely scrub it of any smells.
- Take a minute to check around your house to see if you can hear anything that seems odd when your equipment is on. A constant hum or rattle can be suspicious, so listen carefully.
- Go outside and walk around your house once in the morning, once in the afternoon, and once at night to see if there’s any noticeable sounds or if you can see suspicous looking light from outside.
Lastly, take a good look around inside the tent. Everything should be secure. Make sure that any electronics are off the ground (power strips, ballasts, wires) just in case there’s ever a water spill.
A good rule of thumb is to keep all electronics above the waist, while anything to do with water is kept below the waist. Don’t leave cords hanging around in the tent. It’s not only safer, but it looks a lot nicer when you wrap cords up neatly and secure them in place 🙂
Get Started Growing! You Are Ready!
Now that you’re all set up, the major work is over! Here’s a very quick summary of what’s next:
- Add container with growing media (soil, coco coir, hydroponics)
- Add seeds
- Give nutrients and water regularly
- When plants are about 6 weeks old, put your grow lights on a timer so they turn off for 12 hours each day. Buds will start growing in 1-2 weeks.
- Harvest sweet, sweet buds a few months later!
You can create the perfect growing environment in an afternoon if you use a grow tent. Learn how to set one up for total stealth!
Growing marijuana in grow tents
How to grow marijuana indoors in a growing tent
In this article we’re going to explain some basics about indoor cannabis cultivation in grow tents, one of the most popular options among those who just want to grow some pot at home for their personal use. Being highly versatile thanks to the wide range of available dimensions, you only need to keep several factors in mind to successfully harvest your own buds.
Indoor cannabis cultivation is easier thanks to grow tents
- The lamps should be 50/60 cm away from the plants (with 600 wattsodium lamps), 35/40 cm away with 400 watt sodium lamps, and should be raised as plants grow, always maintaining the same distance from their tops.
- During the growth period, marijuana plants need 18 hours of light and 6 hours of darkness for a fast and healty developement. This phase should last for a minumim of two weeks or until the plants are about 25 cm tall.
- During the flowering period, marijuana plants need 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness (it is very important that plants are in total darkness). The length of the flowering period varies from plant to plant and it ranges from 50-70 days, depending on phenotypes. Normally, growers use HPS lamps, LED panels or LEC CMH lighting kits for this stage.
Ventilation of marijuana plants
The extractor fan must always be connected when the light is on. During the dark phase it should be connected during 15 minutes every hour, and during the last weeks of flowering you should increase this period to 15 minutes every half an hour. If humidity levels reach 90%, then the extraction fan has to be connected continuously.
It can act as “passive intractor” when temperatures are moderate, when we don’t need an intractor fan.
LED panels are great to keep temperatures under control
Temperature and humidity in the grow tent
The temperature in the grow tent should not exceed 31°C (maximum temperature) and should be above 17ºC (minimum temperature), although the ideal temperature is between 20 and 28ºC.
Relative humidity should not exceed 75% (maximum) and should’t be lower than 20% (minimum). The ideal humidity is between 40 and 60%. Sometimes it can exceed 90%, what shouldn’t be a problem if it happens only in particular occasions. A thermo-hygrometer is necessary to control these parameters in our growing space.
Plants must be watered according to their needs
Watering and fertilising marijuana
- Marijuana seedlings need an abundant watering once they have been transplanted (½ litre per plant). A few days later, 150 ml of water per plant and day will be enough. A sprayer can be of great help.
- At the start of the flowering period irrigation should be increased to 250 ml per plant and day.
- During the last two weeks of flowering you should give your plants 150 ml of water per plant and day.
- Before each irrigation, touch the potting soil. If the soil is still moist, wait for the next day to water again.
- These instructions are just guidelines to help you find the optimal irrigation for your plants, which will vary slightly depending on several factors like temperature, pot size, etc.
- Fertilise the plants every two irrigations, i.e. using tap water one day and nutrient solution the day after.
- Fertilising should be done according to the dosage and feeding schedule recommended by the manufacturer.
Cannabis clones in full bloom
Phytosanitary treatments for cannabis
To avoid pests and diseases , it is advisable to treat your marijuana with pesticides, including insecticides and fungicides . The first treatment should done one week after the plants are in the grow tent, and the second treatment should be performed when the plants are one week into flowering.
Marijuana seeds for Indoor growing
Growing marijuana with Metrop nutrients
Growing marijuana with energy saving lamps
Ventilation for marijuana grow rooms
Growing marijuana in the ground
Growing marijuana on terraces
Comments in “Growing marijuana in grow tents” (25)
I have 2- 4×4’ tents and 1- 4×8’ led lighting in all with 2 fans in each tent. The 4×4 have 2 leds and the 4×8 has 4 leds. They have a switch for veg and bloom . Lights altogether cost 900.00 How many lights do I need in the tents? How should I use the veg/bloom switch? Do you use the veg and bloom at the same time and then switch to bloom as the plant matures? Or use each independently during each cycle of the plants life? Thank you
Tim Alchimia 2020-11-16
Hi Greg, thanks for your comment and question. To calculate the lighting needed in each tent you need to now the output of the LED lights in lumens. The plants will need an absolute minimum of 2,500 lumens per square foot, although 5,000 is much better, up to a maximum of around 10,000 lumens per square foot during flowering, which is roughly equivalent to natural sunlight. The Veg/Bloom switch will change the lighting spectrum from a more white/blue light suitable for vegetative growth to a more orange/red spectrum that is ideal for flowering. I hope that helps you out, feel free to ask further questions and we’ll all we can to help. Best wishes and happy growing!
hey tim for marijuana to be potent is it correct to let it cure forhowlong for sone strong potent marijuana thanks
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-10
Hi Wheatie, thanks for your question. Curing doesn’t really affect the potency unless the weed has been curing for a really long time, in which case much of the THC will have converted to CBN, resulting in a more heavy, stony and narcotic effect, but it won’t actually make it any stronger really. The main purpose of curing is to improve the flavour by allowing compounds such as chlorophyll, starches and sugars in the flowers to break down, making for a smoother smoke. The effect will also change slightly, from the up, speedy coffee high of freshly harvested weed, to a slightly more mellow and physical effect once the flowers are fully cured, depending on the variety. As a general rule, I find that Sativas and Sativa-dominant hybrids will benefit from a much longer cure of up to a year, while Indica-dominant varieties tend to only need a relatively short curing period and indeed begin to lose flavour quite quickly, sometimes after a few months. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
James samuel 2020-08-03
Hey so i have a 3×3 tent and the temperature gets really hot becausw my 315w cmh light adds like 10 degrees celcius so it gets up to 32 degrees in my tent i was wondering if i can leave the front of tent open a bit so the hot air can be released will this have any negative effects om my plant?
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-04
Hi James, thanks for your comment and question. There’s no problem at all in leaving the door open while the lights are on, but you’ll need to make sure that the tent is sealed up again before the lights go out if you’re in the flowering period, otherwise you stand a good chance of stressing the plants and having hermaphrodite problems. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
Kids have a 48×48×80 I have a 1200 w led light it equals 600w is that big enough
Tim Alchimia 2020-02-05
Hi Justin, thanks for your question. I take it those measurements are in inches, right? If the lumens are equivalent to those of a 600w HPS (which I think is what you mean here, correct me if I’m wrong) then it should be just fine in that space, although LED lamps don’t tend to have as large a light footprint as HPS so you’ll need to verify how much the light spreads to be 100% certain in this case. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
afternoon. how early can you start to add molasses to your babies
Tim Alchimia 2019-11-01
Hi Leisa, thanks for your question. If you want you can give your plants molasses in low doses from a very early stage, once a few sets of leaves have developed. It won’t act as plant food as such, but it will help to feed the beneficial microbes which in turn will improve nutrient uptake and efficiency in your plants. You can add molasses (making sure it’s the un-sulphured type) throughout growth, increasing the dosage as the plant develops, but it’s during the flowering phase when it will be most beneficial. All the best and happy growing!
I have a friend who got a 2×4 tent with 2 foot led light he wanted to know if he should get another light? he is using an LED 24W 6400k 60cm light, he is only going to be growing Indica if that helps at all.
Tim Alchimia 2019-09-30
Hi Frank, thanks for your question. Yes, your friend definitely needs more light in there! When it comes to LED lamps, we’d recommend a minimum of 50w per square foot, and up to 80w per square foot for optimum results. All the best and happy growing!
ludo Is an Alchimia client 2019-05-26
quel tent et quel plateau avez vous utiliser sur les images ? j’aimerai connaitre les dimensions car cela correspondrais à ce que j’aimerai avoir comme matériel ^^ je suppose 120X120 vue la dimension mais je suis pas sûr en cas le plateau à l’air l’argement mieux que le miens qui prend toute la box et qui me bouche mes arrivé d’air :/ j’ai un sytème growtool 1.2 et franchement même ci la surface prend toute la place, je suis déçu qu’il couvre mes entrer d’air que cela soit passif ou la chaussette d’intra :/ merci pour les info à venir
Tim Alchimia 2019-05-27
Bonjour Ludo, Il s’agit bien d’une box et d’un plateau de 120x120cm. A bientôt
Matthew Mcneil 2018-09-15
Getting ready to order a tent and start growing. 4×4 And would like yo buy a complete set up. Light, balist, filter, fan all in one shot. Can you recommend any certain brand or how I should go about it?
Tim Alchimia 2018-09-19
Hi Matthew, thanks for your question. The best thing to do is to check out our selection of Grow Tent Kits, which include all the equipment you’ll need to start growing. We have several kits including a 120cm (4×4) tent, priced depending on the size of bulb you want and how much money you want to spend. If you have any more questions, don’t hesitate to get in touch, happy growing!
Ryan S C 2018-07-19
And I have gone for ak49 auto fems and northan lights auto gems What’s the best nutrients to use any help would be appreciated
Tim Alchimia 2018-07-24
Hi Ryan, good choice, I’m sure you’ll do great with those seeds! As far as nutrients go, personally I’d recommend to use organic nutrients from a company like BioBizz or BAC which will provide an easy-to-follow feeding schedule. Alternatively Bio-Technology produce an auto nutrient kit specially formulated for Autoflowering plants. All the best and happy growing!
Ryan S C 2018-07-19
Hi everyone i have just set my 120/80/160 tent up with 600w led and 5inch extractor fan an carbon filter how many plants would you recommend i could do in that it’s my first time growing
Tim Alchimia 2018-07-24
Hi again Ryan, with them being autos, I think I’d go for between six and eight plants in that space. It really depends on the final size they’ll grow to, and while autos tend to be on the smaller side, there are exceptions.
I’ve been growing about 15 clones in a horses stable with a 1000w highlider and a 600w. Lights have been on 24/7 for the last 30 days and before that for about 3-4 months with lights on 18 hour a day. I would like to get ready to flower The stable is an open room and the plants are in 4-5 gallon pots What’s the best way to go for setting up for flower? Please help anything will b appreciated. What kind of tents and appliances will I need? Thanks
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-02
Hi Clara, thanks for your question. To set up for flowering you’ll need to create a lightproof space for your plants where they only receive light when you want them to. Without seeing the stable it’s hard to say what to do, some people would put up a quick dry wall to enclose the space but if you’re not that way inclined I’d recommend a grow tent. It sounds like your plants will be quite large after 4-5 months vegetative growth, so I’d recommend a larger tent to ensure they have enough space. Our 240×120 Alchimia Box is a great option. It’s also available as a full kit, including lamps, fans, ventilation and everything else you’ll need, here’s the link: Alchimia Box 240 basic kit. All the best and happy growing!
J R Greentrees 2018-03-09
Does it matter where on the tent you attach the in line extractor? We have a tent with holes at both top and bottom. Also, could one vent the extracted air up through a chimney? I have a powerful extractor that used to be part of an extraction set up for a school forge, and the extraction chimney was pretty tall, as I recall.
Tim Alchimia 2018-03-13
Hi, thanks for the question. Ideally you’ll vent from the top of the tent to evacuate any hot air, but it can work fine either way. Venting the air up a tall chimney sounds like a great idea, but I’d still recommend using a carbon filter to avoid the smell being spread over a wide area! All the best and happy growing!
JR Lautner 2018-02-18
I am starting a 2x4x60inch grow tent. I have a four inch carbon filter kit and 2 600watt leds 277 true watts each. This will be in my michigan basement die to the moist cold air in the basement I am going to draw the intake air from a room on the main level. I will be moving the air about 12 ft with a big drop to the bottom of the tent. I purchased a 4 inch In line duct booster fan will this work for me
Dani Alchimia 2018-02-19
Hi JR Lautner, You should have no problem. I’d recommend you to use a 2-speed fan, so you can switch it in case you need more fresh air inside your grow (which usually happens in summer). Still, you can try with the fan you purchased, I think it’ll work properly. Best!
I’m new to growing I need help I tried many time to grow but every time I try at the first stage the plant die I use 160 wat and a humidifier the temperature 25 humidity 60 only to plants , what should I do Thanks , advance
Tim Alchimia 2018-01-22
Hi Tom, thanks for your question, sorry to hear about your plants dying. those numbers sound fine though, so it must be something else that’s killing them. Without more information on your grow it’s impossible to say what it is, but one of the most common mistakes made by beginners is over-watering, which deprives the roots of oxygen and stunts growth terribly, often killing plants. Allow pots to dry out a little between waterings and get used to the weight of the pots when they’re properly irrigated, that way all you’ll need to do is to lift each pot and if it feels light, it’s time to water! Have a look at our article on watering for some more information on the subject. I hope that helps out, good luck with your next grow, let us know how it goes please! All the best.
Sid Strandberg 2017-10-03
Im thinking of having perhaps 4 plants in a tent ( making them pretty big) how much Watt do i need on my LED for best grow? Im thinking about roleadro 300W but is it to low for 4 plants i found another one that has 1000W ( all the watt is measured on LED basis) Or does it depends on the size of tent? what size for A good tent for 4 plants, 300w/1000W LED? And regarding the seeds, i have grow Bubblegum before, but i guess now when im doing indoor i should be doing Indica because they will fit better in the tent? or you have sativia strains that does not get to height in lenght? feel free to suggest some strains. I would also need nutrients, soil and all of it hehe.. Thank you for the help!
Dani Alchimia 2017-10-04
Hi Sid, Let’s imagine a 1,2 x 1,2m grow tent, which would normally require a 600W HPS lamp. If you can use 2 x 300W LEDs, light distribution will be perfect, much better than if you’re only using a single lamp, and yields will probably be higher than with a standard HPS light. When growing indoors, any pure strain (either Sativa or Indica) is a bit more difficult to grow than hybrids, since in most cases they’re not properly adapted to artificial lighting. Moreover, some pure Sativas are too vigorous and tall for indoor grows, while some pure Indicas take too long to grow and remain too short. For their characteristics, Indica/Sativa hybrids and Sativa/Indica hybrids are the most grown type of strains indoors. About nutrients, I’d suggest to start with something easy. Use some quality soil and slow-release organic nutrients like Biotabs or GH Feeding (Biogrow + Biobloom + Enhancer work great. ). In this way, you’ll only have to use water + some bacteria to irrigate the plants. Hope it helped!
My tent is way to hot I am using a 600watt light with a light cooking reflecter. No matter what I do the tent heats up to over 90. Degrees.
Tim Alchimia 2017-08-29
Hi, This is a relatively common problem in summer, indeed I know many growers that simply don’t grow indoors during summer to avoid just this problem! I’m not sure what the exterior temperatures are like where you are but one easy step you can take is to change the hours on your timer so the lights go on at night, when the exterior air is cooler, so the ambient temperature will be lower. Make sure your cool-tube ducting (insulated ducting will help lower temps too) is venting to the exterior well away from where you’re pulling the fresh air into the tent, and to make the extraction more efficient, make sure the ducting is as straight and direct as possible, without too many twists and turns which would reduce airflow and make the fans work too hard. Is the ballast for the lamp inside the tent? Can you move it outside? That would certainly help too. If these measures don’t make any difference, then you could look into cooling the tent with something as basic as a bucket of ice, or if that’s too simple, then maybe look into a portable air conditioning unit that you could direct into the tent. I hope that’s some help, happy growing!
Darren Bullimore 2017-04-22
I am new to growing i have 2 20ltr oxy pots with 600 watt led and 2 smaller150 watt led full spectrum have advanced nutients micro grow bloom also sumo dragon force nutes my grow tent is 80 x80 x160 and have black orchid extracto and carbon filters and small quiet running 6″ clip fan please any help or advice also i have amhurst sour diesel photoperiod fems seed and big bang fem auto seed stock autos for oxy pots sour diesel in coco cour 10 ltr pots for outdoor thanks in advance
Outside plants receive a decent amount of nighttime light, why do indoor plants have to be in “total darkness?” thank you.
Dani Alchimia 2017-04-03
Hi terry222, Excellent question! Outdoor plants are used to a changing environment, they have sunny days, rainy days, cloudy days, and different moon phases. They adapt to these conditions and react accordingly. On the other hand, indoor plants have much more constant environmental conditions. It must be said that they can also tolerate a certain amount of light during the night period and bloom normally, but it is always better to avoid light sources since indoor plants are more sensitive to environment changes. That’s why complete darkness is always recommended, so you don’t take any risk of stressing the plants. Hope it helped!
Levi Daniels 2016-10-05
I just started growing andemand I plan on using the scrog technique. Is it wise to just do this with a 400w Apollo grow light without a tent? Is a tent really necessary for better yield? I’ve been watering my seedlings once every 2 days and I am currently using a 3800 lumen led light for 2 plants. I feel like the light isn’t too imperative this early in the grow stage but once I have the money I do plan on getting the Apollo. With this relatively simple setup will I need a grow tent, good ventilation and temperature for better yield?
Dani Alchimia 2016-10-06
Hi Levi, As you say, light is not so important during the first stages of the plant, but it is imperative to get good yields once into flowering. Grow tents have been designed to keep a good environment for the plants while protecting them from light sources during their night periods. Thus, they’re very convenient but not strictly necessary, especially in regard with yields. What you do need is a good light source (the Apollo 400W would be ok) and proper air renovation in the growing space (and of course controlling the temperature and humidity). These basic tips for indoor gardening should be useful for you. Hope it helped!
My plants have also got purple lines going up true them does this mean they are stressed someone give me tips I don’t l ow what to do, help??
Dani Alchimia 2016-08-17
Hi Naomi, Check the min/max temperatures inside your grow room, plants normally develop purple hues when exposed to low temps, also if they’re stressed somehow. Also, keep in mind that many strains develop purple colors naturally, which is not a problem at all! Hope it helped.
Need help the leaves on the end of my plant have turned yellow and it’s not because their dry I have checked that just wondering what else coul it be and what can I do to help?
Dani Alchimia 2016-08-17
Hi Naomi, If you mean the lower leaves of the plant, then you need to add more nitrogen to your nutrient solution. Using any fertilizer formulated for the growth stage should solve the problem. On the other hand, if you mean the upper leaves it could be caused by the heat emitted by the bulb. Placing it a bit further from the plants should lower the temperature of their tops and allow plants to grow normally. Hope it helped! 😉
One question I’ve recently started growing I’m just wondering is it normal for water to be at the end of my tent from the steam or should I dry it?
Dani Alchimia 2016-07-27
Hi Naomi, I don’t know if I understood your post correctly. When you say at the end of the tent, you mean you have water condensated on the walls of the grow tent? Or is the water not coming from condensation but from a humidifier? If you have water drops on the walls of your tent caused by condensation, that means you should improve your air extraction system. If it comes from a humidifier, simply adjust it so it produces less vapor. Hope it helped! 😉
Bethany Taylor 2016-01-25
papa indica, I’m preparing to purchase my first grow tent but am unsure as to the size I will need. I bought a 400w hps bulb with air cooled reflector. I only need enough yield to supply my husband and i with a big enough harvest to last until next harvest which is usually around 4-5 oz. We have been growing with CFLs in our closet and i wanna make sure we use our money wisely when purchasing a tent. We have 3.5 gallon containers. If i get a 4’x2’x6′ tent, will this be enough space for 2 plants? (2 sq. ft. per plant) If so, will these 2 plants yield what we need? I ask this because we have 3 plants in the closet that yield around 4 oz combined.
Dani Alchimia 2016-01-27
Hi Bethany, I am currently growing in a 4’x2’x4′ grow tent with two 250W lamps and air cooled reflectors. My plan was using a 400W lamp, but when I checked light intensity with a luxmeter I realized that light distribution was better with two smaller lamps. Still, and since a 400W light produces more lumens than a 250W, you won’t have major issues regarding this. The number of plants depends on growing systems and techniques: you can use the SOG technique and put about 12-16 plants in your space, or you can grow larger plants and use 2-4 plants (SCROG technique). It is up to you, each systems has pros and cons. As you can see, yields do not depend on the number of plants used, but on their size: the idea is always covering the whole growing surface with buds. Hope it helped!
Papa Indica 2015-07-06
One thing to avoid whichever style of reflector you use is the ones that have a smooth reflective surface. The smooth surface doesn’t reflect light evenly and can cause major hot spots. The dimpled surface reflectors distribute light much more evenly and eliminate hot spots. Reflectors should have their own discussion here, there are lots of points to be made on the subject. And I’m glad you like reading my opinions Dani, because I usually have one. :^]_
Papa Indica 2015-07-03
In my experience, a wing style reflector is the worst choice for tent growing, they seem to be better for more open spaces. Earlier on in my growing career I was using LED’s, near the end of that I had an HPS user friend of mine jealous of my results with them but, in the end, replacement costs were just outrageous compared to just replacing a bulb, or even a ballast. So, when I decided to switch over to HID lighting I bought a kit for my HPS set-up that included a wing reflector. I HATED that thing, the heat build-up in my tent was ridiculous, I had to dial my 600w ballast back to 50% power to try and keep it under control. By my second crop with HPS I had an enclosed reflector with my exhaust fan ducted to it to draw the heat out directly from the source. HUGE difference. I was able to bump back up to my full 600w and heat hasn’t been an issue ever since. But, also bear in mind that I’m using duct fans, not inline fans, so granted my fan may have just not been powerful enough to keep up the other way, though it seems to have plenty of pull to me. And by the way, I definitely get better results now with my HPS than I did with LED’s, I guess my friend is just a step behind. But anyway, to me, the enclosed reflector that you can duct your exhaust fan to is far superior to a wing for tent growing. (I have lots of opinions, don’t I?)
Dani Alchimia 2015-07-06
Hi Papa Indica, We just love reading your opinions!! 😉 While I haven’t used duct fans but inline fans, I’ve also realized that the difference between wing reflectors and enclosed reflectors is huge, not only speaking about light reflection, but especially heat dissipation. Again, thanks for your comment. All our best vibes!
In this post we list all the factors you need to consider for growing marijuana in a growing tent. Lighting, ventilation (intraction and extraction),