Photographing Flowers In Your Home
With florists in the High Street, the profusion of garden centres and even supermarkets selling cut flowers there are still opportunities for the flower photographer to get in some detailed work and practice even if you don’t have a garden or are unable due to season, weather or disability to be able to get out to the many Gardens Open to the Public. All you need is good quality flowers, a few props and a mini indoor studio.
Flowers come in all types, shapes, varieties, sizes and colours. You can get coverage from single stem cut flowers, through to small plants that will fit in a window box or indoor pot plants, or others that will go into containers as well as in your garden. Even for the outdoors there is some form of flower available all year round. Transporting a container in from outdoors is both heavy and messy, so here we are going to concentrate on photographing the indoor pot plant or cut flowers you can get from florists or supermarkets.
Supermarkets generally sell bouquets of flowers usually arranged in some manner, and you have the opportunity to photograph the full set or to take it apart and do the individual stem. The quality that you get from your local supermarket will vary with the time of day you buy them and how long they have had them on display, but generally if you can buy bouquets that have a number of buds in them as well as those already in flower, you can photograph them at this stage and in a few days, have the opportunity to photograph them again when fully out. Choosing your bouquet could be difficult with all the different colours, some will have the flowers at different stages in their lifecycle in different bouquets, so it may be necessary to buy a couple of bouquets to get the combination that you require. Don’t however get carried away and buy too many, unless you are going to photograph them over a number of days, you’ll be surprised how long you can spend photographing flowers in all their combinations.
Florists also sell bouquets, but the main advantage with a florist is that you can buy single stems, and only need to buy what you need, when you need it. You can choose the best quality stem they have and be picky, buy those that you want to photograph, have the flexibility of building your own designed bouquet or getting the florist to do the design for you. If the florist is close to you, you can buy what you need for that particular photo shoot and can buy the best specimen in full flower. You can also ask the florist what each one you have chosen is called, remember to get both it’s common name and it’s official name, especially if you are expecting to get the photographs into publications, or picture libraries who usually want this information.
Treating cut flowers when you get them home
When you get cut flowers home you need them to look good for a reasonable amount of time. So I have found doing the following steps I have been able to keep cut flowers for 3-4 weeks. You do loose some along the way, they naturally go over but others that are in bud can last this long. Take the following steps and you should end up with flowers you can photograph a number of times over a period.
Take a clean vase and half fill it with water. If your bouquet came with a sachet of plant food, then mix this in.
Diagonally cut the bottom of the stem off about 2cm up. Use a good pair of cutters/scissors so that the stem doesn’t get crushed or bruised.
Remove all foliage that is going to be below the water level. Left it will just wither and is of no use anyway.
Arrange in a suitable vase.
Place the vase in a position out of direct sunlight, away from draughts and heat sources.
When photographing them, even if doing single stems the answer is to keep them in water in between shots.
If they are still good after a week, then cut off a further 2cm diagonally, and any excess foliage below the new water line, remove any dead flowers, or petals from roses etc and replace the water, adding more plant food. You may need to change vases if the stems are now shorter than the rim of the vase you have been using. Repeat this task until you have had enough of them or they are completely gone over.
The term studio in the case of flower photography doesn’t have to be a large open space, just enough room to set up the equipment required (see below) and for you to move about. If you don’t have the obvious of a garden shed, garage or some other space that you can use then you can set up a temporary studio within your own living space. This could be a front room, conservatory, guest bedroom or any other space in your home. Unlike portrait photographers, who need a decent sized working area to get in people of all different sizes, flowers are small, so the amount of room required to set up your mini studio is not that great.
Which lens you decide to use will be down to your own choice, however you will find that a 60mm lens or setting a zoom at 60mm, which gives greater depth of field, will be ideal for indoor studio photography, particularly for doing flower displays. Larger lenses such as a 105mm would be okay for single stem and close ups of buds, flower heads, but for doing flower displays you would need a much larger working area/studio to get the correct depth of field. Zoom and prime lenses all have a closest working distance, and you may need a macro lens to get close enough to photograph flower heads or buds, I use both 60mm and 105mm macro lenses. Zoom lenses can be used, providing that you watch the minimum working distance. Besides your camera and lenses, you will also find the following useful:-
Lights – ideally would be flash lights, which can be two or more separate flash units or studio lights or even just fixed lights, like Cool-Lite’s, targeted on the subject.
Lighting Stands – to hold the flash lights, reflectors etc. These are very similar to tripods and have the ability to be raised and lowered to the required height.
Light Cube – these come in different sizes and types, see Looking at Light Cubes for more on this. The advantage of a light cube is that the white sides can be used as a diffuser, generally they also come with coloured backgrounds as well as both black and white.
Reflectors – another way of moving light about, particularly if multiple flash units are not available. You can use them to redirect the light source into shadow areas. See our article on Using Reflectors.
Flash metre – when using studio flash or fixed lighting you can use a flash metre to measure the amount of light on the subject for the ISO setting you are using. The reading gives you the aperture (f stop) you need to set the camera at for the speed you want. If you don’t have a flash metre it is not essential as you can work it out for yourself by using the Flash Guide Numbers on your flash unit. If you are using the Nikon creative lighting system, your camera and flash can work out the exposure without the need for a flash metre.
Optional Wireless Transmitter – used between camera and flash lights to avoid cables running everywhere – encourages manoeuvrability on the part of the photographer.
Optional tethered or wireless operation with a computer allowing pictures as taken to appear on the computer and often for camera settings to be changed from the computer.
As well as the photographic equipment needed to run an indoor flower studio you will also need some props. These props will be used to enhance your images by allowing different background colours, having objects to support them like vases or for single stems some form of gripper/holder, alternatively if creating still life images then you may want to include more than just flowers, like fruit, objects etc.
the lights from the flash as they go off. To overcome this use a light cube and have the light come through the cloth, this diffused light gives a much softer and pleasing image anyway. If you don’t have a light cube use brollies or a reflector so you can point the light away from the subject and bounce it back or a diffuser or softbox to shine the light through.
a reflection of you taking the picture. You could use a wireless remote or remote cord to set off the shutter which would allow you to stay some distance out of the way/away from the scene. If you don’t have one of these you can use the self timer.
a reflection of the camera and lens. If you are using a light cube and a wireless remote or remote cord to get you out of the shot, but the camera is still being reflected, then use the front cover of the light cube over the camera and put the lens through the hole provided.
Water effects – adding water globules on flower heads or leaves can add depth, texture and a focal point to a close up. Water can also add sheen to something that may look a little dull. Used wisely and creatively it can look pleasing. One thing to watch out for with water globules is their reflective properties as close-ups could produce images of the camera or flash lights in the water. One way of adding the water is with a mist spray.
I hope this has provided some inspiration and ideas for you to have a go at flower photography. Also if you want some help on what you can do with the photos now you have them then take a look at our article Uses of Garden Photography, as many of the outlets here are similar.
Photographing Flowers In Your Home With florists in the High Street, the profusion of garden centres and even supermarkets selling cut flowers there are still opportunities for the flower
5 Top Tips For Perfecting Your Indoor Flower Photography Skills
Just because it’s winter doesn’t mean we can’t have a go at flower photography! All you need to do is visit the florist and set-up a still life scene in your own home.
14 Jan 2020 12:10AM by Nikita Morris | Flowers and Plants
Spring may be a long way off but this doesn’t mean you have to wait until flowers start raising their heads out of the ground to start photographing them. Your local florist or supermarket will have a selection of flowers you can take home and turn into a photographic subject all year round and the best bit is that you get to stay warm and dry as you can shoot your images from the comfort of your home.
1. Gear Choices
When it comes to gear, a compact with macro capabilities can work just as well as a more advanced camera that uses interchangeable lenses so don’t be put off if you don’t have a macro lens and DSLR in your camera bag. A tripod’s always handy but as you’re working indoors you don’t have to worry about using anything too robust and you can use a variety of light sources (something we discuss further into the piece).
A sheet of white Colormatt makes a good background but you can also use a white sheet of paper, material or anything else you think will work well! A white nylon shower curtain or even unbleached baking paper can work well when using natural light as they can easily be taped to windows. A Wimberley Plamp is useful for holding backgrounds in place as long as you have somewhere sturdy for the other end to clip on to. A Spare tripod or even a light stand will work well as your support for the clamp but if you don’t have a clamp, taping your background to the stand can work just as well. Clothes rails also make good stands as backgrounds can be clipped to the horizontal bar you’d usually hang clothes from or you could use a still-life table if you have one.
3. Props & Vases
Having a selection of vases and other containers to choose from will be useful as you’ll not be stuck with just one option if you find it to be particularly difficult to work with and clothes pegs, masking tape and florist wire are all useful items to add to your collection of tools so you can persuade stems to go in a particular direction or move an unsightly leaf out of view. To add more height, try using plant stands or any other sturdy object that’ll give you the boost in height.
4. Natural Light
Working with natural light is often the easiest and cheapest option but if you do have studio lights to hand, do consider using them. If you want to get a little more creative why not try using a desk lamp or similar which has a bendy neck to make the positioning easier? Do check your white balance, though, as depending on the bulb you have in the light it may need adjusting. Reflectors will always be useful and as DIY versions are easy to make, it means you can create a tool that’s great for bouncing a bit of light back into your shot rather inexpensively. All you need is a piece of card covered in foil or you could simply try using a white piece of card.
5. Adjust The Flowers
Once set up, it’s important that you spend some time turning the flower(s) and adjust the positioning while looking through the viewfinder or at your camera’s screen. Look from above, from underneath, the front, the back, the edge – there’s usually one angle that suddenly stands out and is ‘the one’ that you should shoot.
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Just because it's winter doesn't mean we can't have a go at flower photography! All you need to do is visit the florist and set-up a still life scene in your own home.